Carlita coat: Cutting Instructions

NOTE

Certain parts have to be drafted off of the existing parts. How to draft these are provided in the instructions.

Materials

  • Main fabric
    • Cut 2 Front parts
    • Cut 2 Side parts
    • Cut 2 Front facing parts
    • Cut 2 Back parts
    • Cut 2 topsleeve parts
    • Cut 2 undersleeve parts
    • Cut 2 tail parts
    • Cut 4 belt parts
    • Cut 2 Collar stand parts
    • Cut 2 collar parts on the fold or Cut the upper collar on the fold and the under collar on the bias
    • Cut 2 cuffFacing parts
    • Cut 2 Pocket parts
    • Cut 4 pocketFlap parts
    • Cut 2 chestPocketWelt parts
    • Cut 2 innerPocketWelt parts
NOTE

If your main fabric is quite lightweight and flimsy you may need to interface all the parts with a lightweight interfacing.

  • Lining fabric
    • Cut 2 Front lining parts
    • Cut 2 Side parts
    • Cut 2 Back parts
    • Cut 2 topsleeve parts
    • Cut 2 undersleeve parts
    • Cut 2 tail parts
    • Cut 2 innerPocketBag parts
    • Cut 1 innerPocketTab parts
    • Cut 2 pocketLining parts
    • Cut 2 chestPocketBag parts
  • Light to Mediumweight Hair Canvas
    • Cut 2 Front parts
    • Cut 2 Side parts
    • Cut 1 Collar stand parts
    • Cut 2 collar parts on the bias and seam together
    • Cut 2 cuffFacing parts
    • Cut 2 pocketFlap parts
    • Cut 2 chestPocketWelt parts
    • Cut 2 innerPocketWelt parts
  • Heavyweight Hair Canvas
    • Cut 2 Front shoulder parts
    • Cut 2 Side shoulder parts
    • Cut 2 Back shoulder parts
NOTE

The canvas parts need to be cut nett (without seam allowances).

COMMENT by Benjamin F.

Instead of cutting the canvas parts nett, there is an alternate method where seam allowance is included on the canvas parts. The idea is that because the canvas parts have seam allowance, when they are attached to the main fabric pieces this can allow ease to be worked into the garment for a better shape. The seam allowance is then trimmed from the canvas at a later point in the garment construction process.

However, because this is a more advanced tailoring technique, our instructions are instead written with the nett canvas method.

Benjamin F.
Carlita coatCarlita coat: Design Options