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- Holmes deerstalker hat
- Holmes deerstalker hat: Sewing Instructions
Holmes deerstalker hat: Sewing Instructions
Step 1: Prepping the Pieces
- If needed, Interface the crown and half the ear flap pieces.
- If not already done so, it is recommended to mark the seam lines on your fabric pieces by either a temporary marker or by thread marking. This is for a more precise sew which is key for hat construction.
Thread marking allows for the seam line to be seen on both the right and wrong sides.
Even if you face the crown you may not want to face the ear flaps if you want them to be less rigid when tieing down.
These instructions assume you have marked your seam lines. They may be harder to follower if you skip this step.
Step 2: The Crown
- With right sides together, matching seam lines and peaks, sew two crown pieces together.
- Press seams open. You made need to use a tailors ham for this, if you do not have one you can use flannels or towels instead.
- (Optional) Edgestitch both sides of the seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.
- Repeat until you have two halves. If half the number of crown pieces is an odd number you will have to sew a single piece to each half. e.g. If you have 6 crown pieces, you make two halves of 3 sewing one piece to two sewn together pieces.
- With right sides together, matching seam lines and peaks, sew the two halves together. You may find it easier to handstitch the peak together due to bulk or for precision. This seam will be referred to as the “centre crown seam” going forward.
- (Optional) Edgestitch both sides of the centre crown seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.
Depending on your seam allowance you may want to trim seams as you go to reduce bulk.
Step 3: The Ear Flaps
Ear Flaps with Ties
- Cut two 12” (30cm) - 16” (40cm) length of ribbon. These will be referred to as ties going forward.
- Baste a tie to the right side of an ear flap (the interfaced one if using). Repeat for other tie.
- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew a tie ear flap to a non-tie ear flap.
- Clip and trim seam allowance.
- Turn inside out and press.
- (Optional) Topstitch or edgestitch the folded edge.
- Baste the raw edges together.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap.
If you are uncertain about the length you want for your ties take 1 metre (39”) of ribbon and cut it in half. Use these halves as the ties in the instructions above. The ties are finished at the end so you can adjust the lengths then.
The lengths above are recommendations so feel free to go as long or as short as you like with the ties.
If you prefer you can make your custom ties with fabric, see Holmes cutting for more info.
Ear Flaps with Buttonholes
- Face the backs of two of the buttonholes. (This is not needed if two flaps have already been interfaced)
- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew two ear flap pieces together (one interfaced, one not).
- Clip and trim seam allowance.
- Turn inside out and press.
- (Optional) Topstitch or Edgestitch the folded edge.
- Baste the raw edges together.
- Sew the buttonhole in your preferred method.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap.
The ear flaps will need to be long enough to go over the top of the peak so they can be done up by a button on the peak. Do not use this method if you are not using a button on the top.
For both Ear Flaps with Ties and Button Holes
It is recommended to at least topstitch the ear flaps but this may not be desirable with certain patterns so has been marked as optional.
Step 4: The Visors
There are two methods for constructing the visors. This is due to the different types of materials the visor inserts can be made of. Method 1 is for materials that will not be damaged by a needle or iron. Method 2 is for materials that will be damaged by a needle or iron. Read both methods to determine which is best for you to use.
The Visors Method 1
- Place visor insert on one visor piece inside seam lines.
- Temporarily secure visor insert to visor with temporary pad Stitches. This will be referred to as “faced visor” going forward.
- Baste along the seam line of the inner curve of the faced visor, making sure not to catch the visor insert.
- With right sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the faced visor to another visor piece along the outer curve close to the visor insert, making sure not to catch the visor Insert.
- Notch and trim the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
- Turn inside out and press. Making sure that the seam allowances are on top of not under the visor insert.
- Using the previous basting line as a guide, baste the opening closed.
- Repeat this for remaining visor pieces.
Be careful with the heat of an iron when using certain insert materials. You do not want to melt the Visor Insert and damage both it and the fabric.
If preferred you can temporarily attach the visor insert another way that does not require hand sewing and putting a needle through the material. Just make sure it does not damage your hat fabric when removing or applying.
The Visors Method 2
- With rights sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the outer curve of two visor pieces together.
- Notch and trim (if needed) the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
- Turn inside out and press.
- Insert visor insert in to sewn visor tightly so there is no gap on the outer curve and the seam allowances are all one on side of the visor insert. This will be the upper side of the visor.
- Pin the inner curve together making sure that the outer edge is pulled tightly over the visor insert.
- Baste as close as you can to the inner curve of the visor insert, making sure you pull the fabric tightly over the outer edge as you sew.
- Repeat for the remaining visor pieces.
Step 5: Assembly and Lining
Once again there are two methods for final assembly and lining. Read both methods carefully to determine which is best for you.
Assembly and Lining Method 1
- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
- Sew ear flap to the crown along seam lines.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to baste the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
- Sew the visor to the crown along seam lines. You may find it easier to permanently hand-sew the visor on rather than using a machine.
- Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
- Remove all pad and basting stitches.
- Press the seam allowances inwards, making sure the stitching is not visible on the outside.
- (Optional) Loosely whipstitch the seams to the inside of the crown making sure the stitching does not show on the outside.
- Construct lining the same way as the crown omitting .
- Fold and Press under the bottom seam allowance of the lining. You may find you need to press under more to prevent the lining from showing. You may also find you need to baste the seam allowance down.
- Matching centre crown seams and panel seams, pin the lining into the hat wrong sides together. Placing the folded edge along the stitching lines.
- or whipstitch the lining to the seam allowance of the hat.
- Remove lining basting if used.
- (Optional) Tack the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. This is to help prevent the lining from falling out.
Assembly and Lining Method 2
- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
- Baste the ear flap to the crown along seam lines
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to baste the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
- (Optional) Machine-baste the visor to the crown along seam lines.
- Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
- Construct lining the same way as the crown omitting and leaving a gap in the centre lining seam large enough to turn the hat.
- With right sides together, matching centre crown seams, panel seams and seam lines. Sew the lining to the crown along seam lines. If bulky you may want to trim either the lining seams or both seams.
- Turn hat inside out, pressing lining to inside.
- (Optional/Alternate) Understitch lining.
- Slipstitch lining opening closed.
- (Optional/Alternate) Topstitch or Edgestitch along the outside of the hat, catching the lining on the inside making sure it is not peaking whilst you sew.
- (Optional) Tack the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. This is to help prevent the lining from falling out.
For both Assembly and Lining Methods
You can attach the visors on first, just make sure the visors are under the ear flaps if there is any overlap. It is simply whether you prefer the visors to be underneath or prefer the ear flaps to be underneath like in the instructions.
For both Assembly and Lining Methods
If you are having trouble dealing with the curves of the visors, sew a stitching line an 1/8” (3mm) from the basting line in the seam allowance of the visor and clip to it. This should make it easier to bend the visor to shape. Just make sure to hide this stitching and the clips when attaching the lining.
For both Assembly and Lining Methods
Assembly and Lining instructions are written with a 6 panelled Holmes in mind. You may find the placement of visors and ear flap pieces are different for other numbered panelled Holmes. As a rule of thumb generally the centre front of the visor is always on the centre crown seam so go from there if struggling.
Step 6: Finishing Ties
If you did not cut your ties down when constructing the ear flaps, now is the time to do so. If you made custom ties with fabric then you do not need to do these steps. Again read through both methods carefully and pick which is the best for you.
Finishing Ties Method 1
- Fold the ends of a tie in half and cut a triangle out from the corner to the fold.
- Unfold.
- If you are worried about the ties fraying you can use fray check or equivalent.
- Repeat for the remaining tie.
Finishing Ties Method 2
- Fold under 1/8” (3mm) and another 1/8” (3mm) on one of the ties. Pin if needed.
- Whipstitch the folded edge down to the tie
- Repeat for the remaining tie.
To determine which way you want to fold the ties, you may find it easier to tie the ear flaps up first. Generally you want the fold to be on the underside of the ties but as always it is personal preference.
Step 7: Button
Unless you are doing the Buttonhole Ear Flaps you do not have to sew a button on but it may be useful if you want to hide any misaligned seams at the crown peak.
- Construct a covered button.
- Attach the button via the shank to the peak of the crown doing your best to keep it in the middle of the seams.
- Alternatively if you are not using the button with the ear flaps you can bend the shank down and whipstitch the edge of the button to the crown instead so it does not move.
Whilst certainly optional, you may find that a button is what is missing from the hat to finish the look. So if you are uncertain of the look at this point, make up a quick button and place it on temporarily to see if this is what is missing. If it is, attach it permanently. Whilst a covered button is recommended you can use whatever button you desire, feel free to experiment!
Step 8: Enjoy your new hat!
That’s it! You’re all done. Now enjoy the world in your wonderful new hat whilst maybe solving a crime or two!
Remember these instructions are just guidelines so don’t worry if you want to construct the hat differently.
The Diagrams are yet to be made for this pattern so in the mean time if you need a visual aid, watch the YouTube video that inspired this pattern: