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Bent body Block: Design Options

Conditional Options​

Armhole depth factor (legacy)​

Controls the depth of the armhole. Higher values make a deeper armhole. This option only applies to the legacy (v2) way of calculating the armhole depth.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 60%
  • Minimum: 50%
  • Maximum: 70%

This controls the depth of the armhole, which in turn influences the sleevecap width.

Armhole depth​

Controls the depth of the armhole. Higher values make a deeper armhole.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 5%
  • Minimum: -10%
  • Maximum: 50%

This option controls the depth of the armhole.

This option applies to the new v3 way of calculating the armhole depth. If you enable the legacy armhole depth option, this option will not apply, but instead it’s legacy version armhole depth factor will.

Draft for high bust​

Draft the pattern using the high bust measurement if it is available, instead of using the chest measurement. This can result in a more fitted garment for people with breasts. (Please note that no additional adjustments or shaping is performed. Further manual adjustments may be needed for those with a larger difference between high bust and chest measurements.)

  • Type: Boolean
  • Default: false

Draft the pattern for the high bust measurement (if available) rather than the (full) chest. This will result in a more fitted garment for people with breasts.

Fit​

Biceps ease​

The amount of ease at your upper arm. Note that while we try to respect this, fitting the sleeve to the armhole takes precedence over respecting the exact amount of ease.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 20%
  • Minimum: 10%
  • Maximum: 40%

This option controls the ease at your upper arm/biceps.

Chest ease​

The amount of ease at your chest.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 8%
  • Minimum: -4%
  • Maximum: 20%

The amount of ease at your chest.

Collar ease​

The amount of ease around your neck

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 3.5%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 10%

The amount of ease at your neck/collar.

Cuff ease​

The amount of ease at your wrist.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 40%
  • Minimum: 2%
  • Maximum: 100%

The amount of ease at your cuff/wrist.

Length bonus​

The amount to lengthen the garment. A negative value will shorten it.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0%
  • Minimum: -4%
  • Maximum: 60%

This option controls how far the block extend below your hips.

note

By default this block is as long as your hip line, which is almost certainly too short for the final garment.

Shoulder ease​

The amount of ease at your shoulder. This increases the shoulder to shoulder distance to accommodate additional layers or thickness.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0%
  • Minimum: -2%
  • Maximum: 6%

The amount of ease across the shoulders. When making a coat or jacket, you want to foresee more ease so one can wear layers under the coat/jacket.

Sleeve bend​

Controls the bend of the sleeve at the elbow.

  • Type: Degrees
  • Default: 10°
  • Minimum: 0°
  • Maximum: 20°

The angle by which the sleeve bends at the elbow.

Sleeve length bonus​

The amount to lengthen the sleeve. A negative value will shorten it.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0%
  • Minimum: -20%
  • Maximum: 15%

The amount to extend the sleeve beyond the length of the sleeve in the base block.

note

This is not supposed to be zero​

Setting this to zero will make the sleeve length the same as the base length of the Bent block, which is certainly too short for a coat. Please take note of the default value and use that as a basis to lengthen or shorten the sleeve.

Style​

Shoulder seam shift: armhole side​

Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the armhole side. Decreasing it shifts it backwards.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0%
  • Minimum: -100%
  • Maximum: 100%

Controls the shoulder seam location on the armhole side.

  • Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the armhole side
  • Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the armhole side

Shoulder seam shift: collar side​

Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the collar side. Decreasing it shifts it backwards.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0%
  • Minimum: -100%
  • Maximum: 100%

Controls the shoulder seam location on the collar side.

  • Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the collar side
  • Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the collar side

Advanced​

Across back factor​

Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 97%
  • Minimum: 93%
  • Maximum: 100%

Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement

Back neck cutout​

How deep the neck is cut out at the back

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 5%
  • Minimum: 2%
  • Maximum: 8%

Back neck cutout

Controls how deep the neck opening is cut out in the back of the garment. In other words, increasing this will shift the neck opening to the back.

Front armhole extra cutout​

How much do you want the front armhole to be cut out deeper than the back.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0.5%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 1.5%

How much the armhole is cut out deeper at the front, than the back.

Because a shoulder is more rounded at the front of the body than the back, the front of the armhole cuts deeper into the chest than the back cuts into the back part.

This options controls by how much.

Legacy armhole depth​

Enable this option to use the legacy way to calculate the armhole depth (using biceps circumference) rather than the v3 way (using the waist to armpit measurement)

  • Type: Boolean
  • Default: false

This option allows you to use the legacy way of calculating the armhole depth in Brian, which Bent is based on.

The legacy (v2) way used the biceps circumference to estimate the armhole depth.

The v3 way instead uses the waist to armpit measurement to locate the bottom of the armhole.

If you enable this option, the Brian block will revert to the v2 way of calculating the armhole depth, and Bent will follow.

Shoulder slope reduction​

The amount by which the shoulder slope is reduced to allow for shoulder padding.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 80%

This pattern adapts to sloped shoulder by taking the shoulder slope measurement into account.

However, for jackets or coats, you may want to create more room at the shoulders to allow for shoulder pads. This option lets you create extra room at the shoulders by reducing the amount the shoulders are sloped.

Sleevecap ease​

The amount by which the sleevecap seam is longer than the armhole seam.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 1%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 10%

How much sleevecap ease do you want?

note

What’s the point?​

The amount of sleevecap ease determines how the sleeves rolls from the shoulder.

More ease makes the sleeve curl into the seam as you would expect from a coat. Less ease makes the sleeve lie flatter.

The lighter your fabric, the less sleevecap ease you want.

Sleevecap height​

Controls the height of the sleevecap.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 45%
  • Minimum: 40%
  • Maximum: 60%

This factor controls the height of the sleevecap.