Sandy circle skirt: Sewing Instructions
Due to the different styles and configurations of Sandy you may find you need to skip or re-order certain steps. We’re not going to go into a full explanation on how to create all the individual details that make up a circle skirt. These instructions assume that you know how to sew a zipper, construct pockets, etc. If not, there are numerous excellent articles available on the web, both in writen form, and on video. If you do get stuck, you can always reach out to other FreeSewers in our discord.
Due to seamless and closure Sandy’s needing different constructions we have separated their instructions.
- If including a closure, sew the skirt seam good sides together up to where you intend the opening to start.
- Add Pockets if using.
- If using lining, prep the same as the skirt.
- Finish seams if not lining.
Pockets are not included in Sandy as it has one seam by default or no seams at all.
If you would like inseam pockets you can cut the skirt pattern piece into multiple pieces rather than a single one to create seams to insert them into. Cutting it into thirds (for default) or two (for seamless) will give you two sideseams for two inseam pockets, just don’t forget to add back seam allowance to the cut lines if including.
If you do not wish to create additional seams but still wish to have pockets, you can use Patch Pockets or if you are feeling adventurous, you can use Welt Pockets.
- Insert zipper or placket into opening if using.
- If not using, press the openings seam allowance to the inside and
Skip this step if:
- You are including the zipper in the waistband.
- You are making a seamless version.
- (Optional) Interline the skirt with a stiffer or stronger fabric.
- Attach Lining to skirt at hem and opening by your preferred method.
- Baste Lining to skirt at waist.
- Gather the waist if needed.
- Interface/stiffen half the waistband part lengthwise. Or interface/stiffen one of the curved waistband parts.
- Press under the seam allowance on the long edge of the waistband that is not interfaced. Trim. Baste the fold in place if needed.
- With good sides together sew the interfaced waistband/side of the waistband to the skirt. Gather the skirt down to the waistband if needed.
- If using the curved waistband sew the non-interfaced part to the interfaced part. Trim and clip seam and press the non-interfaced part up and away from the skirt.
There will be some overhangs:
- The side you wish not to overlap should be overhang by your seam allowance.
- The side intended to overlap will have a greater overhang.
- If using a placket, both sides will overhang by your seam allowance.
- If using a zipper in the waistband the greater overhang will need to be trimmed to the seam allowance.
Inserting Zipper in Waistband
- If inserting a zipper into the waistband now is the time to do so, attach the zipper from the waistband fold line down. Or from seam-line down for curved waistband.
- Press under overhangs.
- Press the waistband wrong sides together along fold-line. Or along seam-line for curved waistband.
- Slipstitch_ or Whipstitch the overhang edges to the zipper.
- Press the waistband good sides together along fold-line. Or along seam-line for curved waistband.
- Sew the overhangs with your seam allowance.
- Turn the waistband out and to the inside, Press.
- Egdestitch the waistband in place, this should also close the gap of the over-lap.
- Alternatively, Slipstich or Whipstitch the waistband in place on the inside and close the gap of the over-lap with Slipstiching.
- Add snaps, dress hooks or button and buttonhole, whatever is your preferred closure to the waistband overhang.
- If curved waistband with good sides together sew the two waistbands together along the shortest curved edge. Press away from one another, Trim and clip the seam.
- With good sides together sew the waistband together along the short seams, leaving a gap for the elastic that will be on the inside.
- Press under the seam allowance on the long edge of the waistband that is intended to be on the inside.
- With good sides together attach the waistband to the skirt along the unpressed seam. Trim seam.
- Press waistband and seam allowance up away from skirt.
- Press the waistband to the inside along the fold-line/seam-line.
- Alternatively you can
- Cut the elastic to your waist.
- Thread the elastic through the opening of the waistband making sure not to lose the end.
- Overlap the ends of the elastic by 1cm (3/8 inch) and zig-zag stitch in place.
- Tuck elastic into waistband and close the opening with hand-sewing.
If you have hemmed the skirt with the lining you can skip this step.
Hem the skirt in one of the following ways:
- Omit the hem allowance and bind the raw edge.
- Bind the raw edge of the hem allowance, single fold the hem under and either Topstitch or hand sew the hem in place.
- Double fold the hem under and either Topstitch or hand sew the hem in place. You may have heard this be called a Rolled hem.
There are many ways to hem/face the bottom of a skirt, If you have a prefered method use it here.
You are all done! Now go enjoy your wonderful new skirt and try not to get too dizzy showing off it’s fullness!
These instructions are just a suggestion, there are many ways to construct a circle skirt so feel free to deviate or completely disregard. If you need help, you can always reach out to other FreeSewers in our discord.