Yuri hoodie: Sewing Instructions
This pattern can be sewn with or with out a overlocker/serger. To finish seams without a overlocker/serger you can either use your preferred method or one of the methods below:
- Press open the seam allowances.
- Then on the good side, edgestitch 3mm (1/8 inch) away or closer to both sides of the seam catching the seam allowances underneath.
- On the wrong side trim the seam allowances close to the edgestitching.
- Sew the seam allowances together with either a zig-zag, overcast or straight stitch and press to one side.
- Trim to 1cm (3/8 inch) seam allowance if needed.
If using a overlocker/serger you can sew seams which need finishing in one go rather than sewing the seam conventionally and finishing it.
- With the good sides together, sew the gussets to the front panels along the side seams.
- finish seams.
- With good sides together, sew the front pieces to the back along the shoulder seams.
- finish seams.
- With good sides together, matching back notch to back notch and front notch to front notch, sew the sleeves to the body.
- finish seams.
On the pattern the back notch is marked as a cross-notch (see our pattern notation guide). It is recommended to make this a double notch when cutting out your pieces to make the back notch easier to differentiate from the front.
- (Optional) Overcast the raw edge of the sleeve.
- Press the hem allowance to the wrong side of the fabric and baste in place close to the raw edge.
- On the outside, stitch away from the folded edge, catching the hem allowance underneath using the basting as guide to where the raw edge is.
- (Optional) On the outside, stitch 6mm (1/4 inch) parallel to original stitch along the hem allowance.
- Remove basting.
If you prefer to hem your sleeves after sewing the side seams you can do this step after Step 5. You can skip the overcasting if using a twin needle, coverstitch machine or if you wish to leave the edge raw when hemming. This is just one hemming method, if you prefer another way go for it.
- With good sides together, matching shoulder seams, start at the sleeve edge and sew the sleeve together than sew the gusset and back together.
- finish seams.
- Repeat for remaining sleeve and side opening.
- Fold under and sew the hem on all the raw edges except around the neck edge.
- Sew the hem from the top of one front, to the bottom of the front, then along the bottom of the gusset, then along the bottom of the back, then along bottom of the other gusset, and then up to the neck of the other front.
Follow this step twice, once for the outer hood and once for the lining hood.
- With good sides together, sew the long edge of the Hood Centre to the outer edge of one of the Hood Sides.
- With good sides together, sew the remaining long edge of the Hood Centre to the outer edge of the other Hood Side.
- Press the seam allowances open.
- finish seams.
It is recommended to use Finishing Method 1 for this step regardless of whether you are using a overlocker/serger.
- With , pin the Outside and Lining Hoods together matching the seams.
- Sew the pinned edge together.
- Trim the seam allowance to 1cm (3/8 inch) if your chosen seam allowance is bigger and you have not used and overlocker/serger. Otherwise do not trim the seam.
- Turn the hood good sides out and press the outer edge flat.
- On the outside Topstitch along the edge of the hood, about 1.5 - 2cm (5/8 - 3/4 inch) from the edge. Ensure that your topstitching encloses but does not go through the seam allowance of the outer hood edge. This will create a decorative rim, with the enclosed seam allowance making the rim a bit poofy.
- With raw edges together, overcast the bottom of the hood. You can either do this with an overlocker/serger or a zig-zag or overcast stitch on a regular machine.
When pressing you want to make sure that the outer fabric folds a little bit to the inside. This will help prevent the lining from peaking out of the hood when topstitched. If you do not wish to have the decorative rim, you may still want to understitch the lining so it does not peak to the outside.
- Cut a cross-wise strip of fabric out of your main fabric, your neck opening + 2cm (3/4 inch) long and triple your neck seam allowance wide.
- Press under 1cm (3/8 inch) allowance on the short sides.
Whilst marked optional, it is recommended to do this step as it creates a neater and stronger finish around the neck. You can also make a folded band so the neckband does not have a raw edge but this may be bulky. You will also need to make sure the folded edge extends slightly longer than 1cm to be caught when attaching and topstitching the hood but not so long that it flaps about.
- With good sides together, starting from the centre back pin the hood to the neck, matching the centre backs and overlapping the hood ends at the centre front.
- With good side of neckband to lining side of hood, pin the neckband to the hood matching middle of the neckband to the centre back.
- If using an overlocker/serger, serge the neck and hood together through all layers.
- If using a sewing machine, use a zig-zag stitch to sew all the neck and hood layers together.
- On the outside check around the neckline to make sure all the layers are caught.
- Press seam allowances towards the body.
- On the good side, topstitch with a straight stitch approximately 1cm (3/8 inch) away from the neck edge towards the body to catch and secure the neckband underneath.
- Trim the excess binding from the inside.
If using a overlocker/serger to attach the hood you may want to attach bulky areas down first with a straight stitch such as the front as an overlocker/serger may have trouble sewing these parts.
If you are worried that topstitching the neckband with a straight stitch will not give enough stretch you can always topstitch it with a narrow zig-zag or appropriate stretch stitch of your choosing. If you are not using a neckband you will want to finish the seam with Finishing Method 2 and topstitch with 6mm (1/4 inch) instead of 1cm (3/8 inch).
- At the buttonhole marks on the front panels, sew button holes for 2.5cm (1 inch) buttons or button size of your choosing.
- For button placement you may want to try your Yuri on and see where the buttons fit the best for you.
- Alternatively you can use the button markings on the pattern for placement.
- Attach the buttons.
Enjoy your Yuri!