Cornelius cycling breeches: Sewing Instructions

Step 1: The Front Pockets
Step 2: The Fly
Step 3: Attaching the front to the back
Step 4: Leg bands
Traditional and Elegant
Keystone
Step 5: Waistband
Step 6: Buttons
Step 7: Enjoy!

Step 1: The Front Pockets

Press under the seam allowances of the non-notched edges of the pocket facings.
Matching notches, pin the wrong sides of pocket facings to right side of pocket bags, Edgestitch the folded edges to the pocket bags.
Baste the seam allowances of the notched edges of the pocket facings to the pocket bags.
With right sides together, matching both notches, sew the pocket bags to the front and then press to the wrong side.
Fold the pockets in half along the fold line, right sides together. Stitch the bottom of the pocket bag together.
Alternatively you can French Seam the bottom seams of the pocket bags together if you prefer.
Baste the top and side of the pocket bags to the front seam allowances matching notches.

NOTE

Going forward the pockets and fronts will just be referred to as the fronts.

Step 2: The Fly

With right sides together, from the top Baste along the fly line stopping at the notch on the crotch seam.
From where you left off with basting, stitch the crotch seam together making sure to secure your stitches where the basting ends.
Press open the fly and seam.
Lay the fronts down wrong side up so the right sides of the fly flaps are facing you.
Lay zipper face up on the front flaps, with the left side of the zipper touching the seam, with the bottom of the right zipper tape on the curved flap.
Sew the right zipper tape to the right flap close to the zipper teeth using a zipper foot. Don’t sew it to the front itself!
Pull the zipper to the left so the right flap is pulled over.
Pin the left zipper tape to the left flap.
Sew the left zipper tape to left flap close to the zipper teeth using a zipper foot. Don’t sew it to the front itself!
Fold the zipper guard in half wrong sides together.
Lay the zipper guard on the right flap, right sides touching.
Sew the zipper guard to the right flap, Finish the right side to your liking.
Finish the left side of the left flap to your liking.
Unpick the basted part of the front seam.
Topstitch the right flap down, away from the now unpicked seam, as far down as you can.
Pin/Baste the zipper protector over to the right side to keep it out of the way for the next step
On the outside side, sew the left flap down to the left, following the curved line.
On the outside side, Bar-Tack where you like them for reinforcement.

TIP

When sewing the left flap down on the outside, you may find it best to make a template to help you.

NOTE

If you wish to orientate the fly the other way change the left to right and right to left in the steps above.
If wanting something more historical than omit the zipper and make a buttonhole fly instead.

Step 3: Attaching the front to the back

With right sides together sew the back pieces together along the back seam.
With right sides together sew the front and back together at the side seams and inner leg seam. Making sure to leave a gap below the notches at the bottom of the side seams. The gap will be referred to as the list when going forward.

Step 4: Leg bands

Use the method of the cuff style you chose as they are different depending on which style you are using.

Traditional and Elegant

Finish the raw edges of the slits.
Press the seam allowances of the slits to the wrongs sides. Stitch in place.
Sew one of the leg band pieces to each leg right sides together, matching notches.
Press the bands and seam allowance down and away from leg. Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
Press the top seam allowance to the wrong side of the remaining leg band pieces. Trim the top seam allowance.
With right sides together sew the remaining leg and pieces to the attached leg bands along the bottoms and sides.
Turn the leg bands out. Press.
or Whipstitch the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitching.
Sew the buttonhole. The buttons will be sewn later.

NOTE

If you are worried about a draft you can create a triangle piece of fabric that sits behind the slits out of your pocket fabric. Attaching it before Step 3 to one of the sides of the slits.

Keystone

If using construct plackets for the leg slits.
Sew the plackets to the leg slits similar to how you would sew a sleeve cuff on a shirt.
Close the darts on the leg band pieces.
Sew one of the leg band pieces to each leg right sides together, matching notches.
Press the bands and seam allowance down and away from leg. Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
Press the top seam allowance to the wrong side of the remaining leg band pieces. Trim the top seam allowance.
With right sides together sew the remaining leg and pieces to the attached leg bands along the bottoms and sides.
Turn the leg bands out. Press.
or Whipstitch the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitching.
Sew the buttonhole. The buttons will be sewn later.

NOTE

If you are worried about a draft you will need to construct plackets for the leg slits.

NOTE

For both Keystone, Traditional and Elegant Styles

You can Edgestitch the leg bands together like a modern waistband if you prefer.

Step 5: Waistband

Face one of the waistband pieces using your preferred method.
Sew the faced waistband piece to the top of the legs right sides together.
Press the waistband and seam allowance up and away from leg. Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
Press the bottom seam allowance to the wrong side of the remaining waistband piece. Trim the bottom seam allowance.
With right sides together sew the remaining waistband to the faced waistband along the top and sides.
Turn the waistband out. Press.
or Whipstitch the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitching.
Sew the buttonhole. The buttons will be sewn later.