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Paco pants: Design Options

Elastic​

Ankle/Hem elastic width​

Width of the (optional) elastic at the ankle/hem

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 5%
  • Minimum: 1%
  • Maximum: 13%

If you’re using an elasticated hem at the ankle, use this to set the width of the elastic you’ll use.

In other words, this will control the height of the cuff.

Heel ease​

The amount of ease at your heel (when stepping into the leg)

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 5%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 50%

This controls the amount of ease at the instep, or heel.

Increase this to make it easier to get in and out of your pants.

Waistband width​

The width of the waistband

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 3%
  • Minimum: 1%
  • Maximum: 6%

Controls the width of the waistband.

Fit​

Seat ease​

Controls the amount of ease at your seat

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 5%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 15%

Controls the amount of ease at your seat/bum.

Waist ease​

Controls the amount of ease at your waist

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 2%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 10%

Controls the amount of ease at your waist.

Even if you draft lower pants, this will still influence the ease at the top of your pants (the closure).

Pockets​

Back pockets​

Whether or not to add welt pockets to the back

  • Type: Boolean
  • Default: false

Whether to include back pockets, yes or no.

Front pockets​

Whether or not to add front pockets on the side seam

  • Type: Boolean
  • Default: true

Whether to include front pockets (on the side seam) or not.

Style​

Crotch drop​

Lowers the crotch for a more relaxed fit

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 2%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 10%

Controls by how much the crotch is lowered.

Lowering the crotch makes for a more casual fit.
A significantly lowered crotched can also be a style choice.

Elasticated cuff​

Whether you want to include an elasticated cuff at the legs, or prefer a classic hemmed finish

  • Type: Boolean
  • Default: true

Whether you want to include an elasticated cuff at the ankle, or rather prefer a classic hemmed leg.

Length bonus​

Controls the length of the trousers

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0%
  • Minimum: -15%
  • Maximum: 10%

Controls the length of the entire trousers, which essentially means the length of the legs.

note

Setting this to zero will make the trousers the same length as the waist to floor measurement.

This does not mean that the trousers will hit the floor, since due to the curves of the body and the way the fabric drapes, the trousers will need to be longer than this to actually hit the floor.

Use waistband angle for​

Apply the waistband angle to the front, back or both

  • Type: List
  • Default: both
  • options:
    • both
    • backOnly
    • frontOnly

Determines if the Waistband angle setting is applied to the back part, the front part or both.

Note that applying the setting to only one of the parts can create an angle at the sideseam.

Waistband angle​

Change the angle of the waistband when viewed from the side

  • Type: Degrees
  • Default: 0°
  • Minimum: -20°
  • Maximum: 20°

Controls the angle of the waistband when the garment is viewed from the side.

Increasing this option will raise the back of the pants and lower the waistband in the front. This is ideal for those with a curvy body who want the waistband to sit below the belly in the front, but above the butt in the back.

If you’re setting the waistband angle to a larger value, it’s also a good idea to increase the waist height to make sure you’ve got enough coverage in the front.

Waist height​

Controls the height of the waist, 100% = waist height, 0% = hip height

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 5%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 100%

Controls the height of the waist, where:

  • 100% : The waist of the trousers sits at the waist line
  • 0% : The waist of the trousers sits at the hip line

Advanced​

Cross seam angle​

Controls the angle of the cross seam

  • Type: Degrees
  • Default: 12°
  • Minimum: 0°
  • Maximum: 20°

Controls the angle of cross seam curve.

  • 0% makes the cross seam draft parallel to the hem.
  • Increasing this option will draft the cross seam at that angle away from the hem.

Cross seam bend​

Controls the curvature of the cross seam

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 65%
  • Minimum: 45%
  • Maximum: 85%

Controls the curvature of the cross seam curve.

note

This curve has an influence on the amount of fabric at your bum.

People with a flatter bum will get a better fit by increasing this, as the curve will start later, and this there will be less fabric pooling at the bum.

People with a round bum might want to lower this to create a little more (horizontal) room for their behind.

Start of the cross seam curve​

Controls how far into the cross seam we start to curve

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 85%
  • Minimum: 60%
  • Maximum: 100%

Controls the start of the cross seam curve.

note

This curve has an influence on the amount of fabric at your bum.

People with a flatter bum will get a better fit by increasing this, as the curve will start later, and this there will be less fabric pooling at the bum.

People with a round bum might want to lower this to create a little more (horizontal) room for their behind.

Crotch seam angle​

Controls the angle of the crotch seam

  • Type: Degrees
  • Default: 25°
  • Minimum: 0°
  • Maximum: 35°

Controls the angle of the crotch seam curve.

  • 0% makes the crotch seam draft parallel to the hem.
  • Increasing this option will draft the crotch seam at 180 - the angle.

Crotch seam bend​

Controls the curvature of the crotch seam

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 80%
  • Minimum: 45%
  • Maximum: 100%

Controls the curvature of the crotch seam, which influences the fit at your crotch.

Start of the crotch seam curve​

Controls how far into the crotch seam we start to curve

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 80%
  • Minimum: 60%
  • Maximum: 95%

Controls where the crotch seam starts to curve, which influences the fit at your crotch.

Grainline position​

Controls the horizontal position of the leg relative to the seat

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 45%
  • Minimum: 30%
  • Maximum: 60%

Controls the position of the grainline.

You can use this to shift the grainline inward or outward if that works better for your body.

Leg balance​

Controls the ratio between front and back panel of the leg

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 57.5%
  • Minimum: 52.5%
  • Maximum: 62.5%

Controls the proportion between the front and back part of the legs.

The back of the trouser legs are always wider than the front. This controls by how much.

note

Increasing this will make the front leg panel narrower. This makes the wearer look more skinny.

This trick is often used in womenswear jeans (now you know why you can’t find womenswear jeans with functional front pockets).

Waist balance​

Controls the horizontal position of the waist relative to the seat

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 60%
  • Minimum: 30%
  • Maximum: 90%

Controls the distribution of fabric between front and back parts at the waist.

It is somewhat in vogue to draft a larger back panel these days. Doing so shifts the side seam forward which gives the illusion of being slimmer.

The side effect of shifting the side seam forward is that it’s easy to get into the pockets that are located on the side seam.

This option allows you to control this balance.