Aaron A-Shirt: Design Options
Conditional Options
Armhole depth
Controls the depth of the armhole. Higher values make a deeper armhole.
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 2%
- Minimum: -10%
- Maximum: 50%
This option controls the depth of the armhole in the Brian block Aaron is based on.
This option applies to the new v3 way of calculating the armhole depth. If you enable the legacy armhole depth option, this option will not apply, but instead it’s legacy version armhole depth factor will.
In any case, Aaron allows the armhole to drop much further using the armhole drop option. So you probably don’t need this option from the underlying block, but it’s there if you’d like to tweak it.
Fit
Chest ease
The amount of ease at your chest.
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 8%
- Minimum: 0%
- Maximum: 20%
How much room do you want at the chest?
Whatever value you provide here will simply be added to your chest circumference measurement when drafting the garment.
Given that an undershirt has no arms, a little chest ease goes a long way. Add too much, and you’ll end up with gaping armholes.
This option also allows negative values
You should only use negative ease if you are using a stretch material that you want to fit tightly. Overall stretch should be configured with the stretch option.
Draft for high bust
Draft the pattern using the high bust measurement if it is available, instead of using the chest measurement. This can result in a more fitted garment for people with breasts. (Please note that no additional adjustments or shaping is performed. Further manual adjustments may be needed for those with a larger difference between high bust and chest measurements.)
- Type: Boolean
- Default: false
Draft the pattern for the high bust measurement (if available) rather than the (full) chest. This will result in a more fitted garment for people with breasts.
Hips ease
The amount of ease at your hips.
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 8%
- Minimum: 0%
- Maximum: 20%
How much room do you want at the hips?
Whatever value you provide here will simply be added to your hips circumference measurement when drafting the garment.
This option also allows negative values.
You should only use negative ease if you are using a stretch material that you want to fit tightly. Overall stretch should be configured with the stretch option.
Stretch
Determines the horizontal negative ease.
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 5%
- Minimum: 0%
- Maximum: 15%
How much does your fabric stretch? Choose 0% if your fabric does not stretch.
This option does only impact stretch one-way (horizontal).
Four-way stretch is not really a concern for this top, but if you want you can play with the length bonus option.
Style
Armhole drop
Lower the armhole by this amount. Negative values will raise it.
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 10%
- Minimum: 0%
- Maximum: 75%
How much to lower the armhole below the default amount.
This option also allows negative values. They will, obviously, raise the armhole by said amount.
Back armhole shape
Determines the shape/bend of the back of the armholes.
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 50%
- Minimum: 25%
- Maximum: 100%
Determines the bend of the armhole at the back. In other words, the amount the arm opening is cut-out on your back.
Higher values bend the armhole more, resulting in a more raceback-style top.
Knit binding width
Controls the width of the knit binding as a percentage of the chosen seam allowance, or 1cm if no seam allowance is used.
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 600%
- Minimum: 300%
- Maximum: 800%
Controls the width of the knit binding on Aaron.
The default knit binding width is 6 x the seam allowance. For metric users with the default 1cm seam allowance, this results in a 1.5cm wide knit binding which is a good value.
For imperial users (who have a default seam allowance of 0.5”) or users who choose to use a larger seam allowance, the value of 6 time the seam allowance will probable result in a knit binding that it too wide, so this option allows you to control that.
This option is expressed in percentage of the seam allowance. So the default is 600%, or 6 time the seam allowance.
Length bonus
The amount to lengthen the garment. A negative value will shorten it.
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 10%
- Minimum: -20%
- Maximum: 60%
How much longer than the default length to make your top.
This option allows negative values, which will shorten/crop the top.
Neckline shape
Determines the shape/bend of the neckline at the front.
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 100%
- Minimum: 40%
- Maximum: 100%
Determines the bend of the front of the neck opening.
Higher values bend the neck opening more, resulting in a more squarish neck opening.
Neckline drop
The amount the neck is cutout at the front.
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 20%
- Minimum: 10%
- Maximum: 35%
Determines how much to lower the neckline of the top beyond the default.
Higher values lower the neckline further, resulting in more exposed skin.
Shoulderstrap placement
Determines whether the shoulder strap is placed closer to the neck (lower numbers) or the shoulder (higher numbers).
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 40%
- Minimum: 20%
- Maximum: 80%
Determines the position of the shoulder strap on the shoulder.
Lower values place the strap closer to the neck, whereas higher values place it closer to the shoulder.
Shoulderstrap width
The width of the shoulder straps.
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 15%
- Minimum: 10%
- Maximum: 40%
Determines the width of the shoulder straps.
Advanced
Legacy armhole depth
Enable this option to use the legacy way to calculate the armhole depth (using biceps circumference) rather than the v3 way (using the waist to armpit measurement)
- Type: Boolean
- Default: false
This option allows you to use the legacy way of calculating the armhole depth in Brian, which is the block Aaron is based on.
The legacy (v2) way used the biceps circumference to estimate the armhole depth.
The v3 way instead uses the waist to armpit measurement to locate the bottom of the armhole.
If you enable this option, the Brian block will revert to the v2 way of calculating the armhole depth, which will influence the armhole on Aaron too.