Shelly swimshirt: Design Options
Construction
Hem width
Sets the hem allowance along the bottom of the body of the shirt, as a multiple of the seam allowance.
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 200%
- Minimum: 0%
- Maximum: 800%
Sets the hem allowance of the hem along the waist, as a multiple of the seam allowance.
Sleeve hem
Sets the hem allowance of the hem along the end of the sleeves, as a multiple of the seam allowance.
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 200%
- Minimum: 0%
- Maximum: 800%
Sets the hem allowance of the hem along the end of the sleeves, as a multiple of the seam allowance.
Fit
Armpit ease
Gives more room in the armpit by shifting the sleeve down the body.
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 15%
- Minimum: -20%
- Maximum: 50%
Shifts the sleeves downward to give extra room in the armpit, measured as a percentage of the sleeve diameter. If in doubt, go with the default value.
Note: This option does not change the diameter of the sleeve. To make the sleeve larger or smaller, use the Sleeve ease option.
Note: The Raglan scoop length and Raglan scoop depth options also affect the amount of ease in the armpit.
This option also allows negative values.
Negative values will move the sleeves upwards. Use with caution, even on stretch garments, as this can easily cause binding at the armpit.
Chest ease
Controls how wide the shirt will be at your chest.
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 0%
- Minimum: -40%
- Maximum: 50%
Controls how wide the shirt will be at your chest. Suggested values range from -30% for a tight sensory compression shirt made out of swim fabric, to 0% for a more casually fitted swim shirt, to +30% or more for a loose-fitting shirt made of less stretchy knit fabrics.
Neck position
Controls where the neck hole is placed on the shirt.
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 40%
- Minimum: 0%
- Maximum: 80%
Controls where the neck hole is placed on the shirt. A value of 0% has the center of the neck hole exactly where the four raglan seams would intersect, with the front and back parts being identical. A positive value shifts the neck towards the front of the shirt.
Neck ease
Controls how large the neck hole is.
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 50%
- Minimum: -30%
- Maximum: 150%
Controls how large the neck hole is. Keep in mind that most shirts have neck holes that are substantially larger than the wearer’s neck, and that the neckband will further constrict the neck. 0% ease will make a very small neck hole that hugs the neck snugly and is hard to push over the head, even with stretch fabric. +50% will still make what’s generally considered a tight neckband appropriate for a swim shirt. For t-shirts or for a loose fit, even larger values are recommended.
Neckband length
Controls how long the neckband is, as a percentage of the circumference of the neckline.
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 80%
- Minimum: 50%
- Maximum: 100%
Controls how long the neckband is, as a percentage of the circumference of the neckline. Recommended values for this option vary based on the material used for the neckband and the width of the neckband. Stretchier materials and wider neckbands should use a smaller value for this option.
Neckband width
Controls how wide the finished neckband will be, as a percentage of the neckline circumference.
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 7.5%
- Minimum: 0%
- Maximum: 50%
Controls how wide the finished neckband will be, as a percentage of the neckline circumference.
Sleeve ease
Affects how wide the sleeve is at the armhole on all shirts, and has some affect on the width at the hem of short sleeved shirts.
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 0%
- Minimum: -30%
- Maximum: 50%
Affects how wide the sleeve is at the armhole on all shirts. For shirts that are less than 100% length, this option also affects how wide the sleeve is at the hem, with shorter sleeves being affected by this option to a greater degree, and longer sleeves being more affected by the wrist ease option. In most cases, this value should be set larger than chest ease, as the shoulders and arms are smaller and the same percentage of ease will translate to a smaller absolute ease. For compression clothes, shoulders also need more mobility than the chest, and very negative eases should generally be avoided for this option.
Wrist ease
Affects how wide the end of the sleeve is on sleeves that extend past the biceps. The effect is greater on longer sleeves.
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 0%
- Minimum: -30%
- Maximum: 50%
Affects how wide the end of the sleeve is on some shirts. There is no effect for sleeves ending at the biceps or above. For longer sleeves, the wrist measurement and this wrist ease option have a progressively larger effect, reaching full effect for long sleeved shirts (sleeve length of 100% or greater).
Style
Body length
Controls how long the shirt is.
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 120%
- Minimum: 20%
- Maximum: 300%
Controls how long the shirt is.
- Up to 80% or so will produce a crop top.
- 100% ends at top of the hip bone.
- 120% will produce a typical t-shirt.
- 140% will produce a somewhat longer shirt that is less prone to untucking or riding up.
- 200%+ can be used to make a simple t-shirt dress. It’s suggested that you set straight sides to false, and adjust the side shape (under advanced options) for t-shirt dresses.
Sleeve length
Controls the how long the sleeves of your shirt will be.
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 20%
- Minimum: 0%
- Maximum: 125%
Controls how long the sleeves of your shirt will be.
- 15-30% will make short sleeves.
- 75% will make three-quarter sleeves.
- 100% will make long sleeves, stopping at the wrist.
- 115% will make sleeves covering the knuckles, and is appropriate if using thumb holes.
Advanced
Hips ease
Controls how wide your shirt will be at the bottom hem. This option is only used if the straight sides option is disabled.
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 0%
- Minimum: -30%
- Maximum: 75%
Controls how wide your shirt will be at the bottom hem. This option is only used if the straight sides option is disabled.
Raglan scoop length
Controls how far out from the armhole the raglan seam starts to scoop.
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 20%
- Minimum: 0%
- Maximum: 50%
Controls how far out from the armhole the raglan seam starts to scoop. Larger arms and smaller chests may need to use slightly larger values for this option, but it can usually be left at the default value without issue.
Raglan scoop depth
Controls how much extra material to place under the armpits.
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 6%
- Minimum: 0%
- Maximum: 20%
Controls how much extra material to place under the armpits. Larger values will generally provide better mobility and room in the armpits, while smaller values may give a more fitted look and may be better suited to people with skinny arms. This option can usually be left at the default value without issue.
Body shape
Controls how the side seam is curved. This option is ignored if the straight sides option is enabled.
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 0%
- Minimum: -20%
- Maximum: 20%
Controls how the side seam is curved. Zero creates a straight line from the armpit to the side of the hips. Positive values add material and give the side seam a rounded/convex shape, while negative values remove material and give the side seam an hourglass/concave shape. This option will have no effect if the ‘straight sides’ option is enabled.
Straight Sides
Forms a tubular shirt, which is a shirt where the hips and chest are the same width and connected by a straight seam.
- Type: Boolean
- Default: true
Forms a tubular shirt, which is a shirt where the hips and chest are the same width and connected by a straight seam. Set this to true for front and back parts that are perfectly rectangular below the armholes. This setting overrides any values set for the hips ease or side shape options. For most body types, leaving this option on will result in a reasonable fit that is looser around the belly and tighter around the chest, and generally produces a more fabric-efficient pattern.