Opal Overalls: Sewing Instructions

Note

• A double row of stitching means a row of edgestitching no more than 3mm in from the edge, followed by a row of topstitching about 6-10mm in from the first row. This should produce stitching that looks like the stitching found on jeans, or a flat felled seam.

Step 0: Customizing and fitting your pattern

Select an appropriate leg length:

• 20-60% for shorts
• 90% for ankle-length legs
• 100% for legs that touch the floor.

Decide on what hardware you want to use, if any. These instruction assume you’re using traditional overalls hardware (tack buttons + buckles + sliders), but there are many ways of securing the straps to the front bib.

Decide on what pockets to include, if any. The designs supports up to seven pockets in a classical carpenter style (a bib pocket, two front slash pockets, two back pockets, and two carpenter pockets on the right leg), along with a hammer loop. If not including front slash pockets, the front piece will have to have the triangular gap filled in where the pocket would go.

Figure out what kind of fit you want and set your eases accordingly.

• Overalls are generally much roomier than pants. As such, they usually have quite a bit of ease.
• Keep in mind that the waist must slide over your hips. Either make sure the waist has enough ease to slide over the hips, or use a fabric with some two-way stretch (like the fabric used in skinny jeans).
• The straps must be long enough to add any extra length needed for the hardware. Traditional overalls hardware (tack buttons + buckles + sliders) generally need 20-30cm of extra length to accomodate the straps being adjustable.

If you wish to do any embroidery, it’s easiest to do it now, before starting to assemble the garment.

Step 1: Slash Pockets

• Overcast or serge the slanted edge of the pocket shield to prevent it from fraying.
• With the slash pocket laying flat with good sides up place the pocket shield onto the slash pocket wrong side to good side in the upper corner, matching the slanted edge of the pocket shield to the line indicated on the slash pocket part.
• Edgestitch the slanted edge of the pocket shield to the slash pocket.
• Turn the pocket right-side-out.
• Secure the seam with a double row of stitching.
• Baste the remaining two sides; these will be secured when the pocket is sewn into the legs.
• Repeat for the other slash pocket making sure it is mirrored to one you’ve already made.

Step 2: Bib Pocket

• Press a double fold hem into the top edge of the bib pocket, and secure with a double row of stitching.
• Press a single fold hem into the remaining sides of the bib pocket, and secure with clips or pins. Place the bib pocket carefully into place onto the front bib, wrong side to good side, and pin into place, removing the previous clips/pins as you do so.
• Secure with a double row of stitching.

Step 3a: Back Pockets (first part)

• Press a double fold hem into the top edge of the back pocket, and secure with a double row of stitching.
• Press a single fold hem into the remaining sides of the back pocket, and secure with clips or pins. Place the back pocket carefully into place onto the rear piece, wrong side to good side, and pin into place, removing the previous clips/pins as you do so.

Step 3b: Carpenter Pockets

• Press a double fold hem into the slanted edge of the carpenter pocket, and secure with a double row of stitching.

• Press a single fold hem into the remaining sides of the carpenter pocket, and secure with clips or pins.

• Carefully remove pins as needed from the right back pocket to make room for the carpenter pocket to be slid under the back pocket. Place the carpenter pocket carefully into place on top of the right(opposite of left) rear piece and under the back pocket, wrong side to good side, and pin into place, removing the previous clips/pins as you do so.

• Secure with a double row of stitching on the top, left, and bottom sides of the carpenter pocket, being careful to lift the back pocket out of the way as you sew to avoid sewing into it.

• Baste the rightmost edges of the carpenter pocket and rear pieces together.

• Press a double fold hem into the slanted edge of the 2nd carpenter pocket, and secure with a double row of stitching.

• Press a single fold hem into the remaining sides of the 2nd carpenter pocket, and secure with clips or pins.

• Baste the rightmost edges of the 2nd carpenter pocket and rear pieces together.

Step 3c: Hammer Loop

• Fold the hammer loop piece to the desired width and clip/pin.
• Carefully remove pins from the left back pockets to make room for the hammer loop to be slid under the back pocket.
• Slide the hammer loop under the left back pocket, and replace the pins, securing the hammer loop into place.
• Place the hammer loop along the left edge of the left rear piece, and baste into place.

Step 3d: Back Pockets (second part)

• Secure with a double row of stitching.
• Repeat for the second back pocket.

Step 4: Assembling the front

• Fold the waistband piece as indicated and clip/pin it.
• With right sides together join the front pieces together along the center seam with a flat felled or mock flat felled seam.
• Place the front piece and front bib together with right sides together and secure them together with a straight stitch to form the front assembly. Press the seam so that it lays towards to top the garment.
• Unfold the front assembly and lay it on the table wrong side up.
• Place the waistband over the waist seam, with the smooth side face up, and the side with the raw edge placed against the front assembly. Place the bottom edge of the waistband 3-5mm below the seam, and make sure that the waistband fully covers the seam.
• Trim any excess waistband length.
• Pin into place, removing existing clips/pins from the waistband in the process.
• Flip the front assembly right side up.
• Topstitch 3 or 4 horizontal rows of straight stitching to secure the waistband to the front assembly and reinforce the waist seam, making sure to enclose the waist seam fully within the topstitching.

Step 5: Assembling the back

Note: The center seam runs from the bottom of the ‘hexagon’ to the crotch fork. Be careful not to stitch any part of the hexagon in this step.

• With right sides together , join the front and back assemblies along the center seam with a flat felled or mock flat felled seam.

Step 6: Joining the front and back assemblies

• With right sides together, join the front and back assemblies along each outseam with a flat felled or mock flat felled seam.
• With right sides still together, close the inseam with a flat felled or mock flat felled seam.

Step 7: Forming the hexagon and hemming the bibs

• Lay the back bib flat with right sides up, so that the two back bibs overlap to form the hexagon. The left back/right strap crosses over the right back/left strap.
• Fold the hem allowances of the hexagon inwards into a single-fold topstitched hem/seam, and pin into place (clips won’t work here).
• Fold the remaining hem allowances of the straps and bibs into a double-fold hem, and clip or pin.
• Secure the hexagon and the hems with a double row of stitching. You should be able to be do this in two parts, starting and finishing on the sides of the hexagon for each one.

Step 8: Reinforcing the front bib and installing hardware

• Fold the bib placket piece as indicated, and clip or pin.
• Trim any excess length away.
• (optional) Serge or overlock the sides of the bib placket to prevent fraying.
• Clip or pin the bib placket into place. It should be slightly inset from the edges of the front bib, and the side with the raw edge should be placed against the wrong side of the bib.
• Topstitch 3 or 4 horizontal rows of straight stitching from the right side of the garment to secure the placket into place.

Step 9: Hemming the legs

• Fold the hem allowances of the legs into double-fold hems, and clip or pin.
• Secure the hems with a single row of stitching.

Step 10: Finishing

• Put on a comfortable shirt or one-piece garment for underneath, or just go shirtless.
• Put on your finished overalls.
• You’re all done. Enjoy.