Skully Instrucciones de costura

TIP

Muchas de las costuras más pequeñas (ojos, nariz) se cosen mejor a mano.

La mayoría de las costuras se beneficiarán de ser hilvanadas antes de coserlas.

Paso 1: Los dardos

Primero hay que cerrar seis dardos. One on each, forehead (2), head2 (4), and head3 (5) parts. Sujétalas con alfileres y cóselas para cerrarlas, luego elimina el bulto recortando las pinzas y presiónalas bien. Repeat for all six darts.

Paso 2: Parte superior del cuerpo

Sew together the sides of the eye (9), so you will make a cone. Recorta cualquier bulto. Repite la operación con el otro ojo.

Paso 3: La nariz

Like the eyes, the nose (12) too has parts that need to be sewn together. There are two of these sides that need to be sewn together. Esto crea dos conos conectados. Esto es muy delicado, así que tómate tu tiempo.

Paso 4: La cabeza

TIP

El patrón Skully está preparado para coser por números. Cada costura está numerada. Por favor, empieza por “1”, y sigue hasta llegar a “21”. Ésta es la costura por la que rellenarás a Skully, así que ciérrala sólo en parte .

NOTE

Seam 3 is the seam on the eye (9) part that is marked to be sewn together. Seam 10 is the same on the nose (12) part. These are the only seams not marked with a number on the pattern parts. You have already sewn these now.

Cuando estés cosiendo las piezas individuales, estarás haciendo dos mitades de la calavera.

Coser los ojos y la nariz a las partes de las mejillas y la frente es mejor hacerlo a mano. Tendrás que alinear las distintas muescas con sus correspondientes en la otra pieza.

La parte posterior de la boca superior no está cosida a nada. Sólo está ahí para proporcionar estabilidad.

NOTE

All seams are sewn right sides together except where noted. Most of the instructions below are to be done first with one matching pair of pieces and then repeated with mirrored pieces so that you build up both sides of the skull gradually.

Seams 1 and 2: Sew cheek (1) to forehead (2), matching the dot notch to the dot, and the cross notch to the other cross.

Seam 4: Sew eye (9) to eyeTop on forehead (2) and to eyeBottom on cheek (1).

Seam 5: Sew top of cheek (1) to cheekbone (6)

Seam 6: Sew the other side of the cheekbone (6) to the bottom of the forehead (2) – this is the side that has the dart on it.

Seams 7 and 8: You now have the cheek (1), cheekbone (6), eye (4), and forehead (2) all sewn into one piece on each side of the face. Sew the two sides of the face together at the front, from the top of the forehead to the top of the nose, forming seam 7. And then from the bottom of the nose to the bottom of the cheek, sew the two cheek halves together as well. The top of the face is now complete, leaving a hole for the nose.

Seam 10: Take the nose (12) and sew the openings of the two cones (nostrils) into the space mentioned above. One cone (nostril) will go on one side of the face, and the other on the other side.

Seam 11: Sew the backOfMouth (10) to the underside of the upperMouth (7). The backOfMouth (10) in particular will be visible in the finished Skully, so you should sew the right side of lowerMouth (10) to the wrong side of upperMouth (7).

Seam 12: Join the two halves of the lowerJaw (11) with this short straight seam.

Seam 13: Sew the curve of the lowerMouth (10) to the lowerJaw (11), taking care to sew on the line marked ‘mouthBottom’

NOTE

Sewing the next seam is challenging. You will first be sewing a normal seam between the lowerJaw (11) parts and the lowerMouth (10) part. You will then have to continue this seam along the dashed line (14) on the upperMouth (7) part. El hilván o muchos alfileres son tus amigos. Y asegúrate de que visualiza primero cómo quedará todo junto antes de hacer la costura final.

Seam 14: Sew the top of the lowerJaw (11) to the bottom of the upperMouth (7). This seam starts from the line marked ‘not sewn’ on the upperMouth. First you sew across the piece rather than sewing at the edge – see the dotted line on the pattern piece. Then the remaining part of the upperMouth is sewn onto the down-curved part of the lowerJaw (11).

Seam 15: Sew the lower edge of the lowerJaw (11) to the jawfloor (8) to form the base of the whole skull.

Seam 16: The cheek (1) has edges marked upperJaw and mouthTop. The upperJaw needs sewing to the corresponding markings on the upperMouth (7). The mouthTop needs sewing to the front (narrower) part of the upperMouth piece. At the end of this you have a complete face with open mouth and the jaw beneath it.

Seam 17: We are now starting to put the back of the head together. The head1 and head2 pieces are sewn together to start to create a curve.

Seam 18: Join head2 (4) and head3 (5) – these are the two sides with darts. You will now have a strongly curved half of a head (head1, head2, head3) – seam 19 is at the top of the composite piece and seam 21 runs along the bottom. Repeat to create the second half of the head.

Seam 19: Join the left and right halves of the head along the top of the head and all the way down the back of the head to the base. Make sure to leave seam 21 for last – but you are nearly there.

Seam 20: Now you are joining the front half of Skully (the face and front of the head) to the back of the head. You do this inside out, matching the two notches that are at the bottom of head1 (3) with the corresponding notches at the back of the cheek (1). Seam 20 is mostly on the forehead (2) but the very end of it is on the cheek piece as mentioned.

Turn it right sides out.

Paso 5: Pelo

Now is the time to add hair to Skully. Cuando coloques el hilo de bordar, asegúrate de añadir nudos en la parte interior, o de lo contrario será muy fácil arrancarle el pelo a Skully más tarde.

Step 6: Enjoy!

  • Rellena el peluche con relleno por la abertura que has dejado, asegurándote de llenar bien todas las partes . Las zonas de delante son las más difíciles de alcanzar.
  • Slipstitch or whipstitch the opening closed.

Paso 7: Ajustes

Puedes utilizar la aguja larga de tapicero para añadir algunos retoques a Skully. Añadir algunas puntadas para unir la parte posterior de los ojos a la esquina de las costuras 14 y 21 justo a través del cráneo ayudará a que los ojos no se salgan, y puede ayudar a dar más forma a la cabeza. Lo mismo ocurre con la nariz.

También es buena idea añadir puntadas entre las costuras 5 y 14, a lo largo de ambas costuras. Esto hará que los pómulos sean más pronunciados y contribuye a la forma general del cráneo.

Paso 7: ¡Disfrútalo!

Ya está, ya has terminado. ¡Empieza a planear a qué barco pirata de costura te unirás!