Sarah Skirt Block
Designer Notes
Sarah is the natural waist skirt block from W. Aldrich’s ‘Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear, 6th Edition’. Blocks like this are used as the basic shape of garment designs. This can be sewn as is for a pencil skirt. Though, there are more options available in Penelope. This is the first pattern I drafted for myself in different software as part of a collective attempt to learn CAD pattern drafting at my local maker space. (it’s the first in the book… probably not a coincidence). Several of the dimensions being magic and the curves being “what ever looks good” frustrated me intensely because they wouldn’t scale and the software does not contain a constraint solver to make up for that.
What You Need
To make Sarah, you will need the following:
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 1 meter (1.1 yards) of a suitable main fabric (see Fabric Options)
- An invisible or regular closed end zipper
- Some sort of closure for the waist (if using a zipper)
- (Optional) About 1 meter (1.1 yards) of suitable lining fabric (see Fabric Options)
Fabric Options
Main Fabric
A pencil skirt is a rather formal cut, and most commonly is made in a suiting material. In other words, a fine wool. More casual options among medium weight fabrics include cotton or denim.
Using a fabric with some stretch will make it easier to get a comfortable fit and give you some more room to move about as pencil skirts fit rather tight. Scuba is often seen in pencil skirts as it is firm, has body but also stretches.
A knit fabric may be used. Adjust the waistline down with a negative value for Extra Waist Ease so the finished garment stays up. A tighter fit along the length of the skirt may be achieved by a negative value for Extra Seat Ease.
Lining Fabric
The lining fabric needs to be light, and allow the body to slide over it easily. You also don’t want something to thick as this will be constricting. Silky fabrics are the go to choice as they are lightweight and slippery.
Stretchy main fabrics will most likely not require a lining.
Cutting Instructions
The number of front and back parts depend on if the zipper was moved to the zipper from the side seam. Pattern options account for this. This cut list does not.
Main Fabric
- Cut one front part on fold.
- Cut one back part on fold.
Lining Fabric (Optional)
- Cut one front part on fold.
- Cut one back part on fold.
See Sarah Instructions to understand alterations to the front and back parts required for the lining.
Interfacing
When you cut out a piece on the fold, remember that the fold does not need to be in the middle of the fabric. Choosing the placement of your pieces wisely can greatly reduce the amount of fabric you need for your skirt.