Sabrina: Design Options

Construction

Elastic width

The width of the elastic band you use for the underbust band

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 2%
• Minimum: 0.5%
• Maximum: 5%

This controls the width of the elastic band you’ll use for your under-bust band (or waistband).

This is a snapped percentage option, which means that it is a percentage option that you can tweak, but rather than using an exact percentage, it will snap to the nearest fixed value configured on the option. In this case, that is a list of standard elastic widths. This should ensure that no matter what value you choose, you always end up with an elastic width that is actually for sale, rather than some arbitrary value.

I don’t recommend going below 10 mm, as this will either not give enough support or dig in uncomfortably.

Fit

Armpit adjustment

Move the armpit up or down

• Type: Percentage
• Default: -1.5%
• Minimum: -10%
• Maximum: 10%

This option adjusts the bottom of the armhole.

In my prototypes, the default value fits quite well without digging in, but you may find that you need to adjust this.

This option is affected by the accuracy of the waist-to-armpit measurement.

Bust point focus

How much the virtual bust darts aim at the bust point

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: -50%
• Maximum: 100%

This option determines how much the front side seams aim at the bust point.

A value of 100% puts the seam close to the bust point, which can potentially result in a more form fitting bust shape and more even stretching, but the seams can be uncomfortable and it can increase the sewing difficulty.

Negative values shift the seam away from your bust point.

Leave this at the default value if unsure.

Elastic band stretch

How much the fabric will stretch along the elastic band, when worn

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 20%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 40%

This option determines the negative ease of the main fabric at the height of the under bust band (or waistband).

You can (and probably should) add additional stretch to the elastic band hidden inside the main fabric. This is not what this option is about. This option is solely for the stretch of the outer fabric.

Bust stretch

How much the fabric will stretch along the bust line, when worn

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 20%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 40%

This option determines the negative ease at the bust circumference.

Higher values will give more support and flatten the bust, but can be uncomfortable.

Lower values will give less support.

Length

The length of the garment

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 15%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 100%

This option determines the length of the top.

At 0% the band will sit directly below the bust and start at the under bust measurement.

At 100% the waistband will start at the waistline (and extend below it).

Since the fabric can stretch in various ways, the resulting length is not super predictable. The final length of the bra will also depend on the vertical stretch and strap stretch options and how you wear it.

Strap angle

The angle of the straps on your shoulder line

• Type: Degrees
• Default: 25°
• Minimum: 0°
• Maximum: 45°

This option determines the angle at which the straps go over the shoulder when viewed from above.

Leave this at the default value if unsure.

Strap position

Move the straps towards your shoulders or neck

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 40%
• Minimum: 20%
• Maximum: 60%

This option determines the position of the shoulder straps alongside your shoulders.

Low values move the straps towards your head, large values move the straps towards your shoulders.

Leave this at the default value if unsure.

Strap stretch

How much the fabric will stretch along the straps, when worn

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 20%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 50%

This option determines how much the shoulder straps will stretch when worn.

Going too low will result in too long straps.

Going too high will result in too short straps.

Leave this at the default value if unsure.

Vertical stretch

How much the fabric will stretch vertically, when worn

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 11%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 30%

This option determines how much the fabric will vertically stretch over your bust when worn.

Going too low will result in a loose fit or a garment that is too long.

Going too high will result in an uncomfortably tight fit or the bra being too short (in extreme cases).

Style

Back width

The width of narrow part on the back

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 18%
• Minimum: 5%
• Maximum: 40%

Change the width of the racer back.

Neck depth back

The depth of the neck hole at the back

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 17%
• Minimum: 10%
• Maximum: 25%

This option adjusts the depth of the back neck opening.

Neck depth front

The depth of the neck hole at the front

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 35%
• Minimum: 25%
• Maximum: 80%

This option allows you to customize the depth of the front neckline.

By default, Sabrina has a relatively high coverage at the front. You can lower the neckline for a more open design.

However, keep in mind that significantly lowering the neckline may impact the fit, as it reduces the amount of fabric encircling and compressing your body.

Strap width

The width of the shoulder straps

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 33%
• Minimum: 15%
• Maximum: 50%

This option determines the width of the shoulder straps.

Wider straps are often more comfortable.

Very thin straps might be challenging to sew.

Leave this at the default value if unsure.

Advanced

Back dart angle

The angle of the virtual back dart

• Type: Degrees
• Default: 15°
• Minimum: 0°
• Maximum: 22°

Sabrina creates a virtual dart to prevent sticking up fabric in the center of the back neck.

This option essentially determines how much the straps are being rotated inwards, towards the neck, which stretches the fabric on the back of the neck when worn.

Lower back shape

The lower curve of the C shape on the back

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 40%
• Minimum: 20%
• Maximum: 80%

This option adjust the lower shape of the racer back.

Back split offset

Shifts the back seam towards the side or the back

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 28%
• Minimum: 15%
• Maximum: 40%

This option determines the location of the back side seam.

You can shift it further towards the back or more towards the side of your body.

Leave this at the default value if unsure.

Front split offset

Shifts the front seam towards the side or the bust

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 30%
• Minimum: 15%
• Maximum: 40%

This option determines the location of the front side seam.

You can shift it further towards the bust (in which case it works similar to the bust point focus option) or more towards the side of your body.

Leave this at the default value if unsure.

Strap curve front

How straight the shoulder straps are on the front

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 5%
• Minimum: 2%
• Maximum: 10%

This option determines the curve/angle at which the straps join with the bust part.

Choose something that looks smooth.

Upper back shape

The upper curve of the C shape on the back

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 40%
• Minimum: 20%
• Maximum: 60%

This option adjust the upper shape of the racer back.