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Sabrina sports bra: Sewing Instructions

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These instructions could need some drawings and more detailed instructions. I’d be grateful if you improve them by clicking the link at the bottom on this page.

That said, Sabrina is very straightforward if you already made some similar designs.

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As with all knits and stretch fabrics, but especially with slippery sports fabric, a serger/overlock will make your life much easier. If you don’t have one, use a stretch or zigzag stitch instead.

For the topstitching steps, a coverlock works best, but if you don’t have a coverlock, a twin needle will also give good results. Of course, you can also use a zigzag stitch.

If you only have a standard sewing machine, and it is skipping stitches, try using a walking foot.

tip

If you want to follow a visual guide, this awesome YouTube video by Kim Dave follows a very similar design and was used as inspiration.

The main difference between Sabrina and her design is that we’re using additional side pieces for a better fit across the body.

Step 1: Create two bodies​

  • Serge both sides to the front, matching the notches, good sides together.

  • Serge the back to both sides, matching the notches, good sides together.

  • Join both shoulders, good sides together.

Do this twice to create one outer layer and one lining layer.

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Optionally topstitch the seam allowances towards the back so they lay more flat.

Step 2: Join the bodies​

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As Kim Dave demonstrates in her video, you can remove some fabric near the armholes of the lining piece to create holes that allow inserting removable foam padding into the bra.

  • Turn the outer body good-side-out and insert the lining body (wrong side out) so the seams and wrong sides are hidden between both layers.

  • Match up all the seams and raw edges and align them together using clips. I do not recommend using pins, as they can create permanent holes.

Step 3: Finish the neck and armpits​

Finish the neck and armholes using knit binding.

For this, cut a strip of your main fabric that is about 4 cm wide and as long as the neck opening circumference. (We will attach the binding with some stretch, so technically you’re only using maybe 90% of the length, but having a bit extra makes closing the back easier.)

First, match up a long side of one of your strips with both layers of the neck opening of your body, starting in the back of the neck. The good side of the strip should face the good side of the outer fabric, all three raw edges should be aligned.

Serge all three layers together without using the knife, keeping some fabric in the back of the neck unattached.

Join the binding on the back of the neck good sides together and join the remaining binding to the body.

Fold the fabric to the inside and topstitch to secure the fold. Make sure to use a stretch stitch or cover stitch for the top-stitching.

Repeat the same for the armholes, starting at the bottom of the armhole.

Trim surplus fabric on the inside.

Or use another method to finish the raw edges, like sewing on store-bought fold-over-elastic.

Whatever you do, make sure to stretch the binding you’re attaching to the main body, so that the openings are pulled together and don’t stick up.

Step 4: Attach the waistband​

  • Join the short sides of the waistband, good sides together, to create a loop.

  • Fold it in half along the long side, so the wrong sides are together and hidden.

  • Place and clip the raw edge of the loop onto the outside bottom raw edge of the bra body, matching the waistband seam to the center back of the bra body.

  • Serge through all four layers on the bottom of the body. Make sure to not skip a layer. Leave an opening of around 5 cm (2 inches) on the center back.

  • Cut some length of elastic to a size that feels good (is still comfortable while giving enough support) when you put it around your body at the height of your waistband. Add two seam allowances to that length. This length should be a bit shorter than the waistband rectangle you’ve cut previously. Don’t join the elastic into a loop yet.

  • Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic and feed it through the waistband tunnel.

  • Once you’ve made sure that the elastic sits flat inside the waistband (and you haven’t accidentally twisted it), join both exposed ends of the elastic with your serger or sewing machine.

  • Stretch the waistband to pull the elastic completely inside the waistband and close the remaining opening on the back with your serger.

  • Optional: Topstitch the waistband seam allowance with a stretch- or cover-stitch onto to body pieces.

  • Optional: Topstitch onto the waistband to stop the elastic from moving or twisting inside the tunnel.

Step 5: Enjoy​

Hooray, your Sabrina bra is finished!