Devon denim jacket: Sewing Instructions
Top stitching ahead!
Devon needs top stitching on almost all seams. Just like your favourite pair of jeans, Devon uses top stitching extensively. After sewing a seam, you will have to finish it, press it to one side, and top stitch it. This means that you will have to set up two sewing machines, or apply some strategy to sewing the seams to minimize changing threads.
With only a couple exceptions, you can leave the bobbin thread between sewing the seam, and the top stitching. Where you need to change the bobbin, it’ll be referenced here in the instructions.
Each seam should get two rows of top stitching. One close to the seam, and one a little further away. There is no right or wrong way to do this, whatever you like best. Look at a couple of jeans and see what the distance between the rows of stitching is. But if you’d like something different, that’s fine too. Or leave the second row out all together. Be creative.
The seams should be finished. You can do this with an overlocking stitch, or flat-fell the seam. There is no additional fabric included in the seam allowances for flat felling the seam. If you prefer that finish, make sure you add the required extra fabric to the appropriate seams.
Step 1: Back
- Sew the Back Outside to the Back Panel
- Press the seams toward the Back Panel
- Finish and top stitch the seams
- Matching the center, pin the Back Yoke to the back
- Sew along the seam.
- Press the seam up (towards the yoke)
- Finish and top stitch the seam
Step 2: Front
If you have omitted the front pocket, just sew the Front Side to the Front Panel, finish and top stitch. You can skip the pocket construction part below
- Lay the Front Outside Panel on the Front Panel, matching the top side and the square flaps
- Sew along the edge above the square flap to the top notch
- Sew from the bottom notch to the middle notch You basically sew a seam with part in the middle left open
Press the seam open. On the front panel, with the square flap pointing away from the opening, sew two lines of top stitching between the notches (the part you left open). Pull the ends of the threads to the wrong side and finish.
Pull the other flap to the front panel side and align with the other flap. Sew the top of the flaps together. You can sew the other sides together too, but they will be caught into the front facing and waistband, so there is no real need to do so. Finish the seam and top of the flap. Now top stitch the rest of the seam, stopping at the notches, matching the part you have already done. Pull threads to the wrong side and finish off. Add some bar tacks to where the notches are to strengthen the pocket opening.
If you have omitted the front pocket, continue here.
Sew the front inside panel to the front panel. Make sure you’re not sewing the pocket to the seam! Press the seam towards the front panel, finish, and top stitch.
Give the resulting panel a good press.
On the front inside panel and the front outside panel, clip from the top to the notch.
You can finish this top seam before clipping it. It will make the part you’re folding in finished too.
Press the little flap you created down towards the front panel. Press and top stitch.
This snip in the fabric can make the top stretch in undesired ways. Be careful with this.
Finish all the sides of the pocket parts.
Center the pocket part over the opening you just created, aligning the top of the pocket part with the top of the front panel. Top stitch along the lines indicated on the pattern pieces, securing the pocket to the front part.
Create two big bar tacks along the side of the opening, strengthening the pocket opening.
Stitch two pocket flaps together along the sides and bottom, right sides together. Clip corners, grade seams, and pull inside out. Press the pocket flap and top stitch along the sides and bottom.
Create the button hole. You don’t want to wait until the end to do this.
Lay the pocket flap on the right side of the front, centered over the already sewn pocket. Align the top of the flap with the top of the front. Baste the flap in place.
Lay the Front Yoke on top of the front piece, right sides together, aligning the bottom of the Front Yoke with the top of the front piece. Sew along the seam.
Press the seam towards the top, finish, and top stitch.
If you are using a thin denim, it is a good idea to interface the facings.
Press the Front Facing’s curved side to the wrong side the width of the seam allowance.
Align the Front Facing with the front pieces, right sides together, and sew along the long seam. Grade the seam, press open, and then press to the inside on the jacket.
Repeat for the other front side.
Step 3: Shoulders
Lay the front sides on the back part, aligning the shoulder seams. Sew along the seam.
Press the seam towards the back, finish, and top stitch.
If your fabric is not thick denim, it is a good idea to stitch along the neck opening to reduce the chance of stretching.
Step 4: Collar
If you are using a thin denim, it is a good idea to interface the Upper Collar.
Stitch the Upper Collar to the Under Collar together along the sides and bottom, right sides together. Note that the Upper Collar is slightly larger than the Under Collar, so stretch the Under Collar while sewing. Clip the corners, grade seams, and pull inside out.
Press the collar and top stitch a single row along the sides and bottom. Note that you should use top stitching thread in the bobbin for this one.
Press the seam allowance of the Upper Collar to the inside.
Pin the Under Collar to the neckline, right sides together, matching the middle and the notches to the shoulder seams.
Fold the Front Facings over the collar and pin in place. Clip the seam allowance of the Upper Collar at the end of the Front Facings.
Stitch along the length of the neckline, starting at one of the facings. After the facing part, only stitch the Under Collar to the neckline. Do not stitch the Upper Collar between the two facing pieces.
Clip the corners of the facings and turn them inside out. Clip the curved seam of the neckline.
Clip the neckline seam at the end of the facings. Trim away some of the neckline seam allowance under the facings so it can be hidden when the facing is sewn down. Fold the seam allowance of the Upper Collar inward and pin to the neckline seam. The neckline seam should be inside the collar.
Edge stitch the Upper Collar to the neckline seam between the facings.
Top stitch along the outside of the facing. Note that you should use top stitching thread in the bobbin for this one.
Pin the facing to the front. Mark where the end of the facing is using the pattern piece. You can also sew along the edge of the facing on the wrong side of the front piece, as long as you have top stitching thread in the bobbin. Make sure you catch the pocket flap between the facing and the front piece!
Step 5: Side seam
Now it is time to close the side seam. Pin the back and front sides together, right sides matching.
Finish the seam, press to the back, and top stitch.
Step 6: Sleeves
On the Under Sleeve, fold the extension at the opening back two times and top stitch in place.
Pin the long seam of the Top and Lower sleeve, right sides together. Sew the seam up to the notch.
Now fold back the extension on the Top Sleeve twice and top stitch in place.
Finish the seam, press to the Top Sleeve side, and top stitch the seam. Add a bar tack to where the seam ends.
Pin the remaining seam, and sew it. Finish the seam, and press it towards the Under Sleeve. You can top stitch this seam if you feel strongly about it. It is a hassle, and you hardly ever see this seam.
Turn the sleeve right side out.
Step 6: Cuffs
If you are using a thin denim, it is a good idea to interface the Cuffs.
Press the cuff along the fold line, wrong sides together. Pin the cuff to the sleeve, right sides together. Sew this seam. Press the cuff away from the sleeve.
On each end of the cuff, fold the cuff in two, against the fold you pressed earlier. Right sides together. Fold the seam allowance of the side you have not sewn yet to the outside. Now sew the two sides of the cuff together, exactly next to where the sleeve ends.
Clip the corners, grade the seam, and flip the cuff right side out. Press the inside seam allowance to exactly the stitch line you made earlier when you sewed the cuff to the sleeve. Pin this in place from the right side. Top stitch all around the cuff, making sure you catch the inside seam allowance of the cuff.
Step 7: Setting the Sleeves
Turn the sleeves right side out, and the body wrong side out. Make sure you set the correct sleeve to the right side of the body (don’t ask why this warning is here). The front-facing side of the sleeve is marked on the sleeve pattern.
Match the notch to the shoulder seam of the body. Pin all around the sleeve opening. The sleeve does not need to be eased in. You may still end up with extra material when you make the round if you didn’t exactly pin on the seam. If so, just go back and forth until you dobn’t have any more folds.
Since you’ll be sewing a tube to something that is not a tube, there are a lot of opportunities to create puckers or catch a piece of fabric in the seam. Go slowly, and reposition all the fabric often.
Finishing this seam is a bit of a problem. You will need to clip the seam allowance along thw whole seam. I just finish it first, and then clip the seam allowance.
When you have the seam finished, and clipped, press the sleeve well. Make sure you press the seam allowance towards the body.
Top stitch the whole seam in the round. Again, this is where you want to go slow and methodical. It is very easy to get the wrong piece of fabric stuck under the foot and sewn into the seam.
Step 8: Waistband
If you are using a thin denim, it is a good idea to interface the Waistband.
The construction of the waistband is identical to that of the Cuffs. Please refer to that part for the instructions. Make sure you catch the pocket flap in the seam.
Step 9: Finishing
Now all that is left is making the remaining button holes and adding the buttons.
You’re done!
Go and wear your Denim Jacket with pride!