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FreeSewing

  • Main fabric
    • Cut 2 fronts (part 1)
    • Cut 2 front facings (look for the facing/lining boundary on the front part)
    • Cut 2 backs (part 2)
    • Cut 2 sides (part 3)
    • Cut 2 topsleeves (part 4)
    • Cut 2 undersleeves (part 5)
    • Cut 1 collar (part 6)
    • Cut 1 collarstand (part 8)
    • Cut 2 pockets (part 9)
    • Cut 1 chest pocket welt (part 10)
  • lining fabric
    • Cut 2 fronts (part 1)
    • Cut 2 front linings (look for the facing/lining boundary on the front part, and don’t forget to attach the inner pocket facing extension)
    • Cut 2 backs (part 2)
    • Cut 2 sides (part 3)
    • Cut 2 topsleeves (part 4) Note: Some people like to use different lining for the sleeves
    • Cut 2 undersleeves (part 5) Note: Some people like to use different lining for the sleeves
    • Cut 2 chest pocket bags )(part 11)
    • Cut 2 inner pocket welts
    • Cut 2 inner pocket bags (part 13)
  • Canvas
    • Cut 2 fronts on bias (part 1) Note: Don’t include seam allowance
    • Cut 2 chest pieces on bias. Look for the indication on the front part. Note: Don’t include seam allowance
  • Undercollar fabric
    • Cut 1 undercollar (part 7)

####### Good sides together, or precise pattern matching?

When cutting out two, you can cut them good sides together. However, when working with fabric with a pattern, I prefer to cut them individually to finely control the pattern matching.

When you cut them individually, remember that they need to be mirror images of each other. So flip either your pattern or your fabric over when cutting the second one.

Cutting caveats
  • The chest piece is marked on the front.
  • Don’t include seam allowance when cutting out canvas, and cut it on bias.
  • The front facing and lining is marked on the front piece. They split the front part in two along the boundary line. You can cut the front part along that line after cutting out the front from the main fabric. The inner pocket extension for the facing is printed separately, and you can tape it back in its place after cutting the patern piece. Do not forget to add seam allowance to both the facing and the lining for this boundary seam.

Trace the front facing and lining from the front part