Huey hoodie: Sewing Instructions

This pattern can be sewn with or with out a overlocker/serger. If not using a overlocker or serger you will have to Finish the seams.

Step 1: Attaching the pockets

  • Press under seam allowance of top, curved and slanted edges.
  • Topstitch or EdgestitchSee Edgestitching in the Sewing documentation the curved seam allowance in place. This will form the openings of the pockets.
  • Pin the pockets to the fronts using the guidelines and match raw edges.
  • Baste the raw edges of the pockets and fronts together.
  • Topstitch or EdgestitchSee Edgestitching in the Sewing documentation the top and slanted edges of the pockets to the fronts leaving the curved edges open.

Step 2: Making the Body

Step 3: Making drawstring holes (Optional)

If you don't wish to add a drawstring you can skip to Step 4.

  • Take one matching set of the Hood pieces, that you intend to feature on the outside of the finished hoodie.
  • Mark the place for a hole on each hood piece, along the inner curve.
    • The hole should be about 1.5-2cm from the edge of the fabric. This is to keep your seam allowance out of the way.
    • The hole should be located slightly up from the bottom of the inner curve. This is to keep it away from the front seams.
  • On the wrong side of the fabric, face where you are making the hole to stabilise the fabric.
  • Make a buttonhole at your mark either by hand or by your machine's method.
  • Alternatively construct or use eyelets at the mark.

If you don't have or don't wish to use any interfacing you can use a scrap piece of sturdy fabric such as denim.

The drawstrings will be threaded after the hoodie is constructed.

Step 4: Prepping the hood

  • With good sides togetherSee Good sides together in the Sewing documentation, matching sets, sew the hood pieces together along the outer curve edge.
  • With good sides togetherSee Good sides together in the Sewing documentation, matching seams, sew the inner hood to the outer hood along the inner curve edge.
  • Turn good sides out.
  • Baste the front and bottom raw edges together.
  • Create a casing for the drawstring by stitching about 2.5cm (1 inch) away from the inner edge on the side with the drawstring holes.
  • (Optionaly) If not using a drawstring, Topstitch or EdgestitchSee Edgestitching in the Sewing documentation the inner curve.

When creating the casing or topstitching, make sure the inner curve seam is slightly inside of the hood to stop it from peaking out in the future. Alternatively if not using a drawstring you can Understitch the inner curve seam.

Step 5: Making a neckband (Optional)

A neckband can be useful to stablise and cover the neck seams but it is optional if you wish to skip it.

  • Cut a cross-wise strip of fabric out of your main fabric:
    • Your neck opening + double your front seam allowance long
    • Triple your neck seam allowance wide.

Step 6: Attaching the hood

  • Pin the hood to the neck with outer hood matching good side of neck.
  • If using, pin the neckband good side to inner hood matching raw edges.
  • Sew the neckband seam.
  • Finish seam if not using neckband then proceed to Step 7.
  • Press neckband down.
  • On outside Topstitch neckband in place.
  • On inside, trim neckband down to topstitching.

Step 7: Attaching the waistband

  • Fold the waistband in half lengthwise matching wrong sides. Press.
  • With good sides together sew the waistband to the bottom of the back and front.
  • Press the seam allowance up.
  • Topstitch or EdgestitchSee Edgestitching in the Sewing documentation waistband seam allowance to the body.

Step 8: Attching the cuffs

Step 9: The zipper

  • If need be, face the front edges of the hoodie.
  • Unzip the zipper part way.
  • Fold the top of the zipper tape down to the good side of the zipper tape. Trim if need be.
  • Pin the zipper along one of the front edges of the hood, front and waistband. Making sure the zipper pull is faced the good sides of the hoodie and the bottoms are lined up. The zipper teeth should just be slightly over the seam line with the edge of the tape either matching or being slightly over from the hoodie edge.
  • Using a zipper foot stitch the zipper to the hoodie using you seam allownace width. When you reach the zipper pull, stop, put your needle down, lift the presser foot, pull the zipper pull past the presser foot, lower the presser foot. Then you can continue sewing the seam.
  • Unzip the zipper.
  • Pin and sew the unattached zipper tape to the other side of the hoodie the same way.
  • Press the seams to the inside being careful not to melt the zipper teeth with your iron.
  • Topstitch the zipper tapes in place. You may need to use a zipper foot.

To help match the pockets and seams, when it is attached to one side and temporarily mark the corresponding teeth at the pockets and seam. You can now use these marks to align the zipper to the pocket and seams on the other side.

You only need to face your fabric if it is very stretchy or needs a bit more stability.

Step 10: Thread the drawstring

  • Thread the drawing string through the drawstring holes.
  • If needed secure the ends of the drawstring e.g. with something like aglets.

Use a safety pin to help thread the drawstring.

Step 11: Enjoy!

  • That's it! Your all done! Now go feel warm and comfy in your new hoodie!

This patterns was featured in issue 27 of HackSpace magazine, the article includes instructions too, so you may want to have a look at it.