First thing we're going to do is close the waist dart on the back panel.
Now sew the dart close, making sure to use a small stitch length, and to sew all teh way to the end of the dart, even a couple of stitches off the fabric.
Your back darts should be of equal length. Make sure to sew them precisely.
Follow our double welt pocket instructions to create the back welt pockets.
Since these are chinos, you can/should edgestitch around the welt opening. It's not strictly required for welt pockets, and typically not done on classic trousers (and thus not should in the instructions) but it's a very typically finish for chinos, and makes it easier to keep everything in place.
Join the back pocket facing to the pocket bag by placing them with good sides togetherSee Good sides together in the Sewing documentation and sewing along the longest of the non-curved seams of the facing.
When you're done, press the seam allowance to the side of the pocket bag.
Sew the bottom of the pocket bag to the bottom welt. Press it down when done.
Now align the top of the pocket bag with the waist and sew it down in the waist's seam allowance.
Fold the leg panel out of the way so you can close both sides of the pocket bag.
Make sure to also sew the pocket welts down on the pocket bag
You should overlock/serge the sides of the pocketbag so they don't ravel.
Before we go any further, we'll overlock/serge the edges of the front and back panels of the legs. Make sure to also catch the top of the pocket bag when doing the back panels.
What we want to to prevent these edges from ravelling after we've completed our trousers, and now is the best time to do so.
The front pockets are a little unusual because they have the appearance of classic slanted pockets, but are constructed on the side seam.
We have two front pocket bags, that each have two pieces of facing to attach to them.
(*) With a pocket bag, it's not so obvious what the good side should be.
Do you want the good side to be what you feel when you put your hand in your pocket? Or do you want it to be what you see when your trousers lie on the floor with their insides showing.
There's no right or wrong answer here. You do you.
There's a notch on both front and back leg panels that indicates up to what point the pocket facing should be attached to the side seam.
Make sure to transfer this notch to both the (edge of the) pocket facing and the front trouser leg, since it's important we match them.
Both on the front and the back leg panel, we're going to sew the pocket facing to the side seam.
However, this needs to be precise, so you really want to make sure you either pin or baste it in place.
Start with the front, since that's the easier seam. Once you've got some practice, you can do the back
Sew from the waist down right until the notch that indicates where to stop.
Now press the slant of the front pocket, both on the back and front panel, so that it's a sharp crease.
I strongly advice you to baste the pocket shut/in place before sewing this seam so that you know it's precise.
Closing the outseam means to place front and back panel with good sides together, and sew the outer seam. That's easy enough at the legs, but at the top we have our pocket, which complicates things.
Make sure everything is neatly aligned. Then sew from the top of the waist down to the top notch (this is just over a cm or half an inch).
Now move to the bottom notch of the pocket slant, and sew from there all the way to the bottom of the legs.
When you're done, make sure to press the seam allowance open along the leg. Don't press the pocket, we already did that.
With our pocket opening constructed and outer seam closed, we should now finish the pocket bag.
Pull the pocket bag out so that it dangles on the outside of the trouser leg. Then place both halves together and either use a serger to finish the edge, or sew closely to the edge.
Make sure you end up at the point where the bottom part of the outer seam starts.
When you're done, you can flip the pocket bag back to the inside of the trouser leg.
Our pocket bag is now closed, but when we put our hand in it, you can feel the raw edge of the seam allowance. To avoid that, topstitch along the edge of the pocket bag, locking in the seam allowance.
If your seam allowance is wide, you might want to trim it back first.
At the place the leg down with the good side up, making sure the pocket bag lies flat and towards the front panel.
Now at the top and bottom of the pocket opening, place a bar-tack perpendicular to the outer seam.
With our front pockets finished, close the inseam of both legs.
When you're done, press open the inseam.
Make sure one leg is turned with the good side out, and the other has the good side in.
Not tuck the leg with the good side out inside the leg that has the good side in. This way, they have their good sides against each other.
Aling the cross seam, starting at the back waist, pinning both halves together as you make your way towards the fly. Stop at the lowest fly notch.
When you're done. Do it again. Always sew the cross seam twice. It's one of those best practices you ignore at your own peril.
Take extra care to carefully align the seams where both legs have their back and front panels joined together. Doing so will ensure your cross seam results with a perfectly aligned cross where 4 pattern parts meet each other in a single point.
Getting it just right is one of those things you'll end up cherishing each time you wear these.
Fold the fly extension on its fold line with good sides together.
Now sew along the bottom, to close the fly extension.
Trim back one half of the seam allowance to remove bulk before turning it good side out and pressing.
Serge (or zig-zag) along the open side of the fly extension. No need to serge the top as that will get caught in our waistband.
while you're at it, also serge along the entirety of the fly facings J-shaped edge.
There's extra seam allowance that runs along the fly. We only need this on the right leg panel. Cut it away on the left panel so you're left with the regular seam allowance only.
Sew the fly facing to the left front. Place them with good sides together, alingning the top.
Fold the bottom of the fly facing seam allowance inwards and secure with a few stitches
Sew the fly facing to the seam allowance. Make sure to leave the front panel out of it.
Press open the cross seam. Press the fly facing to the side.
Then, fold over the extra seam allowance on the right front leg and press it down.
Place the zipper along the (slightly curved) edge of the fly extension.
Now sew along the edge. No need to get close to the zipper, just sew along the edge to hold them in place.
Now place the right front leg's fly with the extra seam allowance that you folded back on top of the zip.
Use a zipper foot edge-stitch the folded-over edge along the zipper edge.
You might want to baste this first to make sure it is nicely parallel to the zipper. Close, but not too close.
Now sew the other side of the zipper to the fly facing. Make sure to align it properly so that when the trousers are closed, the zip is hidden
Sew the last bit of the cross seam up to the highest fly notch.
Now topstitch the so-called J-seam of the fly. Make sure to keep the fly extension out of the way.
Now bartack the very botton of the J-seam (the horizontal part) but this time make sure to also catch the fly extension.
For efficiency, we will contruct one long strip of belt loop that we'll divide into 8 parts.
Cut a strip of 80cm long (32 inch) and 2.8cm wide (1 1/8 inch).
Serge (or zigzag) the long edge of the strip on both sides.
Fold one side inwards, and the other side over it. Then press down with your iron. The end result should be a long strip about 1cm wide.
Now sew along the entire length of the strip, smack in the middle of it. Make sure to use a generous stitch length for this.
Finally, cut your length belt loops strip into 8 equal parts to make 8 belt loops.
We're going to divide our belt loops along the waist:
Place the belt loop at these places with their good side down (against the good side of the fabric of your trousers, and the top aligned with the waist. Sew this down in the seam allowance of the waist, making sure that they are perpendicular to the waistband.
If you're making a straight waistband, skip directly to attaching the waistband to the outside.
Place both waistbands with good sides together, and sew along the top of the waistband (the shorter edge).
Trim the seam allowance of the inner waistband, and press all seam allowances towards the inner waisband.
You can now treat your assembled waisband as one piece, and continue as for the straight waistband.
To make sure your inner waistband doesn't peek out, you can _understitch_. Sew a line of stitching on the inside waistband, close to the edge, through the inner waistband and seam-allowances (but not the outer waistband!).
Place the waistband with good sides together along the waist. For the straight waistband, make sure the side with the standard seam allowance is aligned with the waist, and not the side with double seam allowance.
Also make sure to leave suffucient seam allowance beyond the start and end of the waistband.
Sew along the entirety of the waist, attaching the waist band and sewing down the belt loops in one go.
Press the seam you just sewed, pressing the seam allowance up into the waistband.
Now fold over the waistband at the correct width and press in the crease.
At the start and end, fold the waistband over so it has it's good sides together.
Now sew the end shut by sewing top to bottom to just the point where the waistband seam ends.
Trim back the seam allowance a bit so you can tuck it all into the waistband later.
The waistband has extra seam allowance here, and we're going to use that to our advantage.
Fold the waistband in the fold you pressed. Then on the inside, fold the seam allowance inwards, making sure to let it run a few mm beyond the waistband seam.
You want to baste this in place so it stays put as you make your way around the waistband.
At the start and end of the waistband, you'll need to tuck in some more seam allowance. Take a moment to get it right.
Now with the good side up, sew exactly in the seam that was sewn before (so called stitch in the ditch).
This will catch the back of the waistband which we've made to extend slightly further, and lock all the seam allowance inside.
It's best to make the belt loops a bit wider than the waitband, to accomodate wider belts.
For this, let the waistband lie flat, and sew it down with a bartack 1.5cm or so (half and inch) below the waistband.
Now fold the belt loops upwards (hiding the bartack you just did).
They'll extend beyond the top of the waistband. So fold the excess down again. Don't fold it over/around the waistband, but fold it double on itself.
Now do a bartack along the top of the waistband to lock the belt loop in place.
When you're done, carefull twist the back of the beltloop to the front and cut off the excess right next to the bartack.
Be careful not to bartack the front of your trousers to the back.
Double-check you don't have any extra layers under your needle because unpicking a bartack is no joy.
Fold the hem allowance halfway up, and press. Then fold them again, and press again.
Finalize by hand and blind hem your trousers.
Create a buttonhole. Either by hand (it's worth practicing) or with a machine.
Finally, attach the button.
Now take a moment to appreciate all the hard work you did. We hope you'll get a lot of wears out of these.